April 20 2014
Having accumulated an impressive three Michelin stars, celebrated chef Yannick Alleno has turned his hand to “bistrot.” Fresh, regional produce. Revisiting the old classics: e.g. a croque monsieur and a bar menu featuring the trusty sandwich jambon-beurre. Despite the superficial attempt to play it down, the Terroir Parisien bistrot still feels terribly grown-up.
Meg (of Paris by Mouth fame) and I sit at the bar. All apart from two young children who are over-excited at the choice of desserts, the clients are surprisingly subdued. Hushed, polite murmurings are coming from each of the tables. The service is friendly, if not a little bit slow and forgetful. It’s as I’m writing this up that I realise that what was missing (for me) was a bustling conviviality. It may say bistrot, but don’t be fooled – it still thinks of itself as a fine dining establishment. There’s no chance of the evening ending with raucous spontaneity.
The bar menu is solid and generous. Well seasoned and tasty. I’ll be back during the week to the restaurant to try out the plat du jour, which at 15 euros, seems like a steal.
I have to say, the wine list is rather too boring for my tastebuds. There is a lot of Chapoutier, which is not exactly what I would go for, but it seems some people do…. In terms of pricing, the house wine is Chapoutier’s Marius Red and White, at 19 euros/bottle. I’ve bought that for 3 euros each at Metro so there’s no mistaking where these guys make their margins. Still, I did like the way that the wine list was divided up by price point: bottles at less than 20 euros, the next range from between 20 and 35, etc etc.
Overall, the experience was positive. The food was good, the Georges Duboeuf Languedoc 2007 wine that we settled on was ok, but over-oaked. The atmosphere classy and pleasant. It would be a very safe place for a date. On a personal level, I just wish the wine list were more interesting.
Essential Information Address: 20 rue Saint Victor, 75005 Telephone: 01 44 31 54 54 Website: Website, Facebook Opening Hours: Open for lunch and dinner, seven days a week. Reservations: not necessary for the bar. Suggested footwear: Black leather ankle boots with a slight heel. Key Words: classic, modern, French